Braga, Portugal
Portugal’s cradle of Christianity (and Vinho Verde) is rich with sweet delights.
A Short History
The Iberian Peninsula has been inhabited for over 30,000 years. A Celtic tribe, the Bracari, settled in the area that includes present-day Braga around 800 BCE, and perhaps even earlier. The Romans invaded in 136 BCE, encountered unexpectedly fierce resistance from the Bracari, and had to fight hard to take the land, a place they dubbed “Bracara Augustu” in 16 BCE.
A series of Germanic tribes (Suebi, Vandals, Visigoths) invaded, conquered, and reconquered the area during the Middle Ages.
The Umayyad Caliphate conquered much of the Iberian Peninsula beginning in the 8th century CE. However, Braga was only briefly captured and remained mostly outside Muslim rule.
Being an inland city, Braga did not profit in the same way as Lisbon and Porto during the so-called “Age of Discoveries.” Instead, the city was expanded through the powerful Archdiocese of Braga. Later, in the 18th century, Braga benefited from another wave of modernization with architects like André Soares building and updating churches and municipal buildings, often using the late Baroque style called Rococo.
Foodie Braga
Praça — City Market (Mercado Municipal)
Everyone loves flowers. But, Braga is really in love with flowers. Even some of the Calçada Portuguesa (sidewalk tiles) have floral designs.
As we walked up to the Mercado Municipal, I noticed lots and lots of people with large bouquets of flowers. Women and men, young and old, it seemed everyone had recently purchased flowers. It wasn’t even a holiday.
Then, I got inside the market and I saw where they came from.
Some markets might have a single floral stall, maybe a handful. But in Braga there’s dozens of vendors making arrangements and selling flowers. It definitely put a smile on my face.
There’s also lots of produce vendors selling fresh fruit and veggies along with stalls selling nuts, spices, and candy. Recently, the market expanded by adding a food court.
Give yourself some time to walk around and check out what’s on offer because there’s so much there.
Vegetarian Braga
Sometimes it’s hard to eat vegan/vegetarian in Portugal, but Braga punches way above its class when it comes to plant-based dining. Many restaurants, even traditional ones offer at least one veg. entrée and there are a lot of choices for purely vegan and vegetarian restaurants. Even the cafes often have plant-based milk options for your coffee, not always a given in Portugal.
Like a lot of restaurants in Portugal, many of these places are lunch-only. Gosto Superior and Anjo Verde are the exceptions. Be sure to check hours of operation before heading out.
Soul
Hidden in a tiny non-descript mall not far from Praça da República is Soul. Their food is healthy and delicious vegan fare. The quiche made with a chickpea crust is outstanding. I also love their veggie bowls. Soul has cookies and desserts as well. I load up here with snacks and treats before getting on the train from Braga to Lisbon.
Gosto Superior
It was raining as we arrived at Gosto Superior. Mercifully, as soon as we sat down, we were greeted with a pot of hot tea on our table.
There’s no menu at GS, per se. Instead, they tell you a couple options for the day and you pick your favorite. Luckily, it’s all delicious.
Everything is vegetarian and I particularly enjoyed the veggie tart, but it’s all super yummy and very, very affordable. So good!
Pausa Útil
You looking for great plant-based food at a budget price? Pausa Útil is your place. I seriously thought they made a mistake when I got the bill and asked “Did you leave off an entree?” Nope, it’s really that affordable.
Plus, the food is super good. Some of the highlights are the grilled seitan and the Francesinha, a monster sandwich that’s a specialty of Porto but is also served widely in Braga. In fact, there’s a bit of a war between Porto and Braga about who has the best Francesinha.
Paladares
Paladares is a vegan restaurant not far from the Jardim de Santa Bárbara. They have a nice selection of vegan dishes including a terrific chickpea salad sandwich that they bill as “mock tuna.” Their pasta dishes and soups are also especially good.
Anjo Verde
The great thing about almost all these places is that you get delicious sides of salad and sautéed veggies with your entre. And the sides aren’t afterthoughts. They’re well thought out and carefully prepared. Anjo Verde, a vegetarian restaurant on Largo da Praça Velha, is no exception. The veggie tart is particularly good. Anjo Verde also has an excellent wine list.
Anjo Verde is probably the fanciest place on this list, so if you’re celebrating a special occasion while in Braga, this is the place.
Braga Pastry
There are several delicious sweet treats that were first made or popularized in Braga. Some of these are so-called Doçaria Conventual or Conventual Sweets that originated in local convents. Others have a history that dates back even further.
The most famous pastry in Braga is called Tibias, named after its resemblance to the tibula leg bone, though some might joke that it resembles another part of the anatomy. Of course I’d never think of making such a crude joke.
The Tibias resembles an Éclair with a long piece of fried dough filled with cream, custard, or jam. There are important differences between the Tibias and Éclair. The Tibias dough is normally fluted with ridges so when it is fried it becomes much crispier. The Tibias also has a larger variety of fillings including lemon curd, hazelnut, and strawberry cream in addition to the traditional cream filling.
Tibias is normally sprinkled with powdered sugar and fancier versions might have fresh fruit and even more cream on top.
Braga’s most famous spot for Tibias is Tíbias de Braga. When you’ve got Tibias in your name, it better be good, and Tíbias de Braga delivers. They have a wide variety with lots of flavor options. I really like the lemon one.
My favorite spot to get Tibias is Ciccoria Caffè. They have a great location right off the Praça da República. Their Tibias are fresh and absolutely scrumptious!
Sameirinhos
The nuns of the Santuário de Nossa Senhora do Sameiro (Sanctuary of Our Lady of Sameiro) invented Sameirinhos. The pastry shell resembles a small boat which is filled with egg and almond custard. Ferreira Capa makes delicious Sameirinhos. Pastalaria Veneze also has their own spin on Sameirinhos with a bowl shaped crust rather than the traditional boat shaped one.
Fatias
Fatias is sort of like an egg custard bar and it doesn’t have any crust. Almonds and lemon or orange zest are added to a simmering simple syrup of sugar and water. After cooling slightly, egg yolks are carefully whisked in to prevent curdling. The mixture is poured into a baking tray and placed in a warm oven. The finished Fatias is sliced into bars and topped with powdered sugar.
One nice thing about Fatias is that they are naturally gluten free but be sure to ask about cross contamination if you’re celiac or very gluten sensitive.
Pastalaria Veneze is a good place to get a Fatias in Braga.
Viúvas
Viúvas is a custard tart made from egg yolks, sugar, and almonds. The recipe originated at the long-gone Convento dos Remédios in Braga. The recipe was forgotten, only to be recently revived by local bakeries.
Or that’s what I heard. I must’ve visited a dozen pastelarias in Braga that supposedly had Viúvas on the menu. Not one had it. A couple said “maybe tomorrow,” but tomorrow came and still no Viúvas.
The closest I came was at Pastelaria Veneza. They had Viuvus on a display stand under glass. I asked for it and they said it was just to look at, not for sale. Denied!
Bolo Romano
Bracara Augusta was the name of Braga when the Romans were here 2,000 years ago. Not only did they bring grape cultivation and winemaking to the region, they also left a culinary tradition.
Inspired by Braga’s Roman heritage, the pastry chef at Frigideiras do Cantinho decided to create a cake using the same ingredients from 2,000 years ago. No flour or sugar is used in the Bolo Romano. Instead, it’s made using just eggs, honey, nuts, and, in a nod to modernity, a bit of port wine. Shortly after the new Bolo Romano debuted, actual Roman ruins were found under the bakery.
Today, when you come to Frigideiras do Cantinho there is a glass floor where you can look down and actually see the Roman ruins. Extraordinary.
Drinking in Braga
2,000 years ago, the Romans planted grape vines and made wine in the region where present-day Braga is located. Wine is big business here with the Minho region accounting for almost 10% of the wine production in Portugal.
Vinho Verde is the wine variety here. Literally translating to “Green Wine,” Vinho Verde actually means young wine as it is bottled shortly after harvest. The most popular grapes in Vinho Verde are Alvarinho and Loureiro. Both are white grapes though Vinho Verde can also be red, rose, and even sparkling wine.
The characteristic effervescence in Vinho Verde traditionally came from malolactic fermentation. Today, however, artificial carbonation is usually added.
Unlike other cities in wine regions around the world, Braga doesn’t have a bunch of wine bars or enotecas where you can sit down and try several different local wines (perhaps with a snack). Maybe that’s because Vinho Verde is thought to be a casual drinking wine and not a serious wine. Whatever the reason, if you’re looking to sample Vinho Verde in Braga, many restaurants have a nice wine list with local bottles ( Anjo Verde is one fine choice). A local cafe (like Bota Fogo) might even have Vinho Verde on tap. Or, go to a bottle shop like Vinho e Paladares. There’s also Corriqueijo, a cheese shop with an excellent selection.
Things to do in Braga
Jardim de Santa Bárbara (Garden of Santa Barbara)
A lovely little formal garden in the middle of the city. The flowers are well maintained by the city with annual blooms regularly changed to keep the colors going all year.
The garden abuts the ruins of a Medieval arcade and behind that is 14th century Gothic eastern wing of the Episcopal Palace. The palace is currently part of the University of Moinho and isn’t open to the public.
The centerpiece of the garden is the Fountain of Santa Barbara. The fountain originally resided in the Convento dos Remédios, the convent where the elusive Viúvas pastry was invented. Before the convent was destroyed (there’s a theater where the convent once stood), the fountain was removed and is now enjoyed by everyone who visits the garden.
Museu dos Biscainhos (Biscainhos Museum)
The Museu dos Biscainhos got its name from the workmen who built this magnificent home. They came from the Basque region which is know for the Bay of Biscay. Dr. Constantino Ribeiro do Lago commissioned the construction in 1665 when he was preparing to get married. Unfortunately, he died before the home was completed, leaving his son to oversee final construction.
The property passed through many generations of the noble family until it was sold to the city for a fraction of its value in exchange for the final owner (a Countess) being allowed to live the rest of her life tax-free. The museum has been open since 1978.
The interior of the museum is filled with artwork, furniture, ceramics, and other pieces from the 17th to 20th century. These items reflect how the house would have been decorated, though they are not original to the property as the Countess left it empty when she sold it in 1963.
While it’s interesting to marvel at how the top 1% of the top 1% lived back in the day, for me, the outdoor space steals the show.
The gardens are a maze of boxwoods filled with interesting plants. The space is accented with baroque statues with fanciful gates leading from one area to the next. There are a couple fountains that were designed by local architect André Soares and a gazebo. The vegetable garden is planted and maintained by the Centro de Solidariedade de Braga/Projecto Homem, a local treatment facility helping people overcome addiction.
Nogueira da Silva Museum
Hiding behind a nondescript façade on a busy street behind a bus shelter is one of the most unexpected places in Braga. While most of the big sites in the city were from the 18th century or earlier, the Nogueira da Silva Museum dates from the 20th century.
Now owned by the University of Moinho, it was Nogueira da Silva who commissioned the building of the house. He was a wealthy entrepreneur who made his money working closely with the Estado Novo, the fascist regime that ruled Portugal from 1932 to 1974. I don’t know if da Silva himself was a fascist, but he certainly didn’t oppose them and it’s difficult to imagine otherwise when a painting of him wearing a dime store dictator-lite outfit hangs prominently in the museum.
Regardless, the museum is interesting for da Silva’s unfocused collection of Renaissance artwork, 17th century furniture, and ceramics.
Like the Museu dos Biscainhos, the outdoor space steals the show. There is a rose garden as well as several other blooming gardens. The space is dotted with azulejo murals, fountains, and statues including a striking depiction of Apollo and Daphne.
We paid to see the museum’s interior, but supposedly, if you want to skip the inside you can tell the clerk you want to see the garden (ask “Jardim?”) and they’ll let you go out back for free. There’s also a small cafe in the garden.
Palácio do Raio (Palace of Raio)
Braga is renowned for its Rococo architecture. This late Baroque style is flamboyant and ornamental. In Braga, one of the main purveyors of Rococo was sculptor and architect André Soares. He designed several local churches and municipal buildings as well as this private residence, the Palácio do Raio.
The building was commissioned by the wealthy merchant and Knight of the Order of Christ, João Duarte de Faria, in 1754. The façade is striking and shows off the fanciful nature of Rococo with the curves and flourishes surrounding each window frame. This matches nicely with the azulejo tiles. Inside, the staircase is equally stunning.
Pedro de Rates
Braga can trace its Christian roots all the way back to the first century CE. The legend is that Jesus’ apostle Saint James visited Serra de Rates, not far from Braga in the year 44 CE. The story goes that James converted Pedro de Rates (Peter of Rates) and ordained him as the first bishop of Braga in the year 45 CE. However, it is known that James was in Jerusalem at this time so this story is likely just a Christian folk tale.
Pedro ran afoul of the local Roman authority for refusing to renounce his faith and was beheaded in 60, making him a martyr.
In the 9th century, a failed fisherman left home and became a hermit living on a hill called Monte Lanudos. This man, Felix the Hermit (now known as São Félix o Eremita, Saint Felix the Hermit), said he saw a mysterious light emanating from the hill. Curious, he followed the light and found what he thought were the remains of Pedro de Rates. However, researchers say the body is likely that of a child from the 9th century.
The Romanesque Monastery of Rates (Igreja Românica de São Pedro de Rates) was built to honor Pedro of Rates and is about a 30 minute drive from Braga.
Churches
Because of its strong ties to early Christianity, Braga has lots and lots of churches, including some of the most important and ornate in Portugal. Visiting all of them would be impossible, but there are some can’t miss highlights. Even if you’re not religious, impressive Rococo (late Baroque) design, artwork (including azulejo tile murals), and fanciful interior flourishes are can’t miss attractions.
The big name churches are quite impressive and most require and entrance fee, but there are many, many smaller churches that are free to enter (when they’re open) and it’s worth popping in for a look. Just remember to be respectful, especially if they’re having a service. However, it should be noted that many churches in Braga (as in the rest of Portugal) are now “Property of Public Interest” and have been converted to museums or municipal buildings.
Bom Jesus do Monte
If Braga is known for one thing, it’s Bom Jesus do Monte. The original chapel was built in the 14th century, but the church and sanctuary were rebuilt several times over the centuries. The current church was designed by renowned local architect André Soares. Inside, the chapels depict the stations of the cross.
While the church itself is impressive, the staircase leading to the church and the views of Braga are truly breathtaking. 577 steps, divided into dozens of zig-zagging staircases decorated with statues and punctuated on each landing with a fountain dedicated to one of the five senses leads all the way to the church. At the top is a nice gazebo and grotto with a waterfall and a few viewpoints decorated with statuary.
Sunset is an incredible time to be here. You can watch the sun drop behind the hills from one of the landings as the whole valley is bathed in golden light. Be aware that the church closes at 7pm, so if you’re coming for a late sunset, it may not be open. The funicular which allows you to bypass the 577 steps to the church closes at 8pm.
The church is a few kilometers from Braga. A bus will take you to the foot of the staircase. My preference is to take a ride share which goes all the way to the top of the hill. Walking down all those stairs is much easier than climbing.
Monastery of São Martinho de Tibães
Like I said earlier, Braga traces its link to Christianity to the first century. So, there’s a lot of very old religious sites in the area. The original monastery was built in 1060 and there was even a nearby monastery founded by São Martinho (Saint Martin of Braga) in the 6th century.
In the 17th and 18th century, the current church was designed in the late Baroque Rococo style complete with all the flourishes and fanciful design that comes with it. The wooden altarpiece was designed by famous Rococo sculptor and architect André Soares.
When Portugal nationalized its monasteries in 1834, the assets of the church were sold and the property was purchased by private individuals. However, the church was allowed to fall into disrepair and in 1986 it was acquired by the state who have been restoring the site ever since.
The monastery itself is quite large with almost everything the monks would need to live their lives including a kitchen, a barn, a wine cellar, dormitories, a bookstore, and, of course, chapels. There was even a barbershop. And there’s a room filled with some of the artwork purchased by the monks in the 19th century.
Outside, there’s a couple walking trails, the longest of which will take about 90 minutes to complete. You can see several fountains, a lake, and the tiny São Bento chapel. There’s also a wealth of flora and fauna including gorgeous blooming hydrangea.
There’s a bus that drops you off next to the monastery. It takes about 20 minutes from Braga. If you don’t have a car, you can also do a rideshare but be aware that the site is rather remote and you may have difficulty summoning a ride back to town.
Santuário de Nossa Senhora do Sameiro (Sanctuary of Our Lady of Sameiro)
A 19th century neoclassical church with incredible views of Braga. Some say the views are even more breathtaking than Bom Jesus do Monte. The church itself isn’t that interesting. However, for foodies, this is the place where the nuns of Sameiro invented the pastry Sameirinhos.
The church is about 5 miles from Braga. A bus can take you out there but it takes around 45 minutes. If you have a car, the trip is 15 minutes or so.
Sé de Braga (Braga Cathedral)
Braga has an incredibly long Christian tradition and the cathedral is one of the oldest and most important buildings in the city. The cathedral was consecrated in 1089, shortly after the Moors were repelled from the region. After the initial construction was completed, the church was modified and expanded over the centuries so today there is a mishmash of Romanesque, Gothic, Moorish, and Manueline architectural styles.
Inside are several interesting sites including a Romanesque chapel that might be part of the original 11th century cathedral, a 14th century statue of Mary in the main chapel, and the cathedral museum which has many artifacts from the church’s long history including a gorgeous Manueline chalice from the 16h century.
If you’re interested in Peter of Rates (see above), there is a chapel in the cathedral dedicated to the saint decorated with stunning Azulejo tile murals telling the story of his life. Supposedly, the remains of Peter of Rates are kept in the cathedral.
Igreja de São Marcos (Church of Saint Mark)
Igreja de São Marcos, also known as the Igreja do Hospital (Hospital Church), was built on the ruins of a 12th century Romanesque church in the 18th century. Supposedly there are relics of the Apostle Mark in the church, making it another pilgrimage spot in Braga.
The church is still used today and on the day we visited there was a wedding going on. We hung out long enough to see the happy couple emerge from the church to a hail of cheers and rice.
Igreja dos Terceiros (Church of the Third Order of St. Francis)
A minor church in Braga, construction on the Igreja dos Terceiros was started in 1685 and completed about 50 years later. It has a couple very nice Azulejo murals and is known for the wooden carving of Jesus carrying the cross.
Igreja do Populo (Pópulo Church)
Unlike the many fanciful Rococo churches in Braga, Igreja do Populo was built later in the slightly more restrained Neoclassical style. Inside are several impressive Azulejo murals.
The church has been a “Property of Public Interest” since 1977 and the nearby monastery is part of the Town Hall of Braga.
Daytrips from Braga
Braga itself is often a daytrip from Porto, which is a short drive or train ride away. However, Porto is definitely worth at least two days, if not more.
Guimarães is often thought of as the birthplace of Portugal. Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, was born here and the city was Portugal’s first capital. Visitors enjoy the medieval castle and the Palace of the Dukes of Braganza.
Outdoor enthusiasts will love the Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês. The rugged terrain boasts amazing views and waterfalls as well as Roman ruins. There’s also an abundance of wildlife in the park.
Transportation
There are no commercial flights into Braga. You’ll likely arrive from Porto which is well connected to Braga with plenty of train and bus arrivals. It’s also easily accessible by car.
If you’re going to or from the Porto Airport, Get Bus is reliable and inexpensive.
Local Transportation
Braga, while the 5th largest city in Portugal, is very walkable and a car isn’t needed to see most sites. Rideshares (Bolt and Uber) are widely available as well.
Transportes Urbanos de Braga (TUB) is the local bus company. They can get you around town and to some of the sites that are outside the city center like the Bom Jesus do Monte. However, it is important to note that this is not Lisbon or Porto and service is not as frequent. Also, there is no light rail or metro in Braga although there is talk of building a new light rail service to connect Braga with Guimarães, Famalicão and Barcelos. Stay tuned.
About the Author
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “ Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “ That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including in-depth eating and drinking guides in Portugal to Lisbon, Porto, Sintra, Évora, Monsaraz, and Batalha. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms and is distributed by the Radio Misfits Podcast Network.
Originally published at https://destinationeatdrink.com on September 6, 2023.
